Terroir Sense Review by Ian D'Agata
Podere Sabbioni (Terroir Sense 23.12.23)
“Podere Sabbioni is one of those Italian winemaking gems that are teetering right on the cusp of stardom…”
“Massimo Carletti isn’t just passionate and hard-working, but is intelligent enough to listen and change his mindset when he realizes he was mistaken… Many years ago he wasn’t quite as passionate about the Maceratino grape and the Ribona wine as he is today, but his wife certainly was.
She took him to a tasting of old vintages of Ribona and it’s fair to say his eyes were opened: until that fateful evening, he hadn’t yet realized just how well the wines made with Maceratino grapes could age”
“Maceratino’s wines differ from those made with Verdicchio (the other Marche superstar grape but much better-known all over the world), because Maceratino’s wines have a slightly less obvious fruitiness and
a more elegant austere personality, but for sure the two grapes share a disposition for age-worthiness.”
“Suffice it to say that Carletti has championed Maceratino and its Ribona wine ever since, and is now not so arguably the best producer of these wines in the region.”
“And when you get to his top wine, the Ribona della Famiglia, then you are talking about one of Italy’s fifty best white wines.”
“The Podere Sabbioni 2022 Ribona della Famiglia is the best the estate has ever made…
It has a very pretty luminous pale straw-yellow colour, enlivened by green tinges. The inviting nose offers penetrating aromas of orchard fruit, lime, mint, crushed rocks, white flowers and chamomile.
In the mouth, it is fresh and vibrant, with sneaky concentration, but with noteworthy elegance and complexity to its white fruit and mineral flavours. The finish is tapered and long, and boasts uncommon clarity and cut. A marvellous wine of uncommon precision, I can’t wait to taste this again…
Drinking window: 2025-2032.”
Podere Sabbioni.
The winery boasts 4 hectares planted at 170 meters asl, at 20 km from the seacoast, on the border of the Natural Reserve of Abbadia di Chiaravalle di Fiastra, in the commune of Petriolo. Due ridges overlooking the Fiastra stream create a canal effect, such that there is always a cooling breeze. The soils are limestone and sand, poor in nutrients and give back wines that are saline, vertical, mineral. The wienry grows only native grapes, mostly Maceratino (used to make a wine called Ribona of which Podere Sabbioni is the best producer of) but also Verdicchio, Montepulciano and Sangiovese. The estate sues ecosustainable farming practices and has a metro station in its vineyards to be able to follow the growing season closely from a climate aspect.
Podere Sabbioni 2023 Verdicchio Marche Bianco 90
Light yellow-green. Subtly perfumed nose of fresh green apple, nectarine, mint and minerals. A juicy, focused midweight, with enamel-stripping, laser-like acidity energizing the minty orchard and stone fruit flavours and zingy minerality. Finishes classically dry and stony, and repeating lemony acid lift. A single vineyard wine that I think is very promising and that might offer a whole lot more in the years to come. Drinking window: 2025-2030.
Podere Sabbioni 2023 Ribona Colli Maceratesi 92
Pale yellow. Laid-back lemon, orange and pear aromas are complemented by dusty talc and dried flower notes. Soft and round, with slightly warm citrus and orchard fruit flavors and an expansive back half. This will work well with richer seafood preparations. Drinking window: 2024-2031.
Podere Sabbioni 2022 Ribona Riserva della Famiglia Colli Maceratesi 94
Bright straw yellow with some gold. Complex nose of ripe citrus and orchard fruit aromas, along with hints of mint, balsamic oils and grilled nuts. Finely smooth pear and Meyer lemon flavours are lifted by tangy minerality and lemony elements. The long suave finish offers fresh citrus peel nuances and mineral notes to the rich, nicely mouthcoating fruit flavours. This wine has been a knocvkout from day one, and if anything it is only getting better. Drinking window: 2025-2033.
Podere Sabbioni 2023 Rosato Marche 92
Bright pink. Juicy fresh and lively, with pretty red berry and herbal nuances that linger on the juicy zippy finish. Perfect summertime sipper, this is an excellent Rosato. Drinking window: 204-2025.
Podere Sabbioni 2021 Rosso Piceno 92+
Good bright ruby. Deep aromas of raspberry, licorice and menthol are lifted by topnotes of violet and peony. Juicy acidity focuses the very rich red and blue fruit flavours. Finishes with lively acidity and firm but polished tannins that coat the palate. Very impressive fruit- and floral red closes with a rising perfumed back end. A blend of 85% Montepulciano and 15% Sangiovese, this is a much better wine than the somewhat raw 2020 Rosso Piceno: well done. Drinking window: 2026-2032.
